Still Missing Gourmet

While searching through recipes at epicurious.com, looking for something different to do with my leftover artichoke hearts, I was reminded of the abrupt death, a number of years ago, of Gourmet Magazine.

Final Issue of Gourmet

I was angry that Condé Nast threw away this beautiful treasure and, as a matter of fact, still am. I was disappointed to be denied the pleasure of snuggling on the couch, a cup of tea by my side, to enjoy a culinary tour of December. If they had to close the magazine, why didn’t they have the decency to finish out the year? My magazine holder sits incomplete, December (my favorite food magazine month) missing; a testament to all the fine disappearing magazines and newspapers in what is becoming a sterile, electronic world.

It seems crueler to lose work during the holiday season. The staff at Gourmet, busy working on their next issue, were unceremoniously let go. They, along with us, never got to see the December issue, all dressed up in its holiday finery, proudly take its place on all the festive magazine displays throughout the country.

The people we had come to think of as friends, such as Ruth Reichl and Sara Moulton, as well as the top editing staff, would all be fine. But what about all the cogs in the wheel (or, in this case, clams in the chowder)? Were they all able to land on their feet? And all those freelance writers, photographers, food stylists and recipe testers, as well as printers and suppliers; were they all able to fill the economic void left by Gourmet's untimely demise?

I was also angry that, without subscriber input, Gourmet was automatically replaced with Bon Appétit. Rather than extending my existing Bon Appétit subscription, as I unsuccessfully asked them to do, I was blessed with two copies of Bon Appétit every month for six months … a waste of my money as well as paper, printing and postage costs. And shame on Condé Nast that they continued to solicit subscriptions and subscription gifts to a magazine they knew would soon be extinct.

Born January, 1941, Gourmet was the first US magazine devoted to food and wine. It survived nearly 70 years, bringing its readers an opportunity to relax and become immersed in beautiful food and travel. Couldn’t travel to the mountains for Christmas? No problem, Gourmet would take us there; we would almost shiver from the cold as we merrily glided across the silvery snow in our horse-drawn sled. Unable to get a reservation for that sweet little restaurant? That’s okay, Gourmet allowed us to taste the crispness of the duck and the silkiness of the crème brûlée while sitting by the crackling fire at a French country inn.

My first magazine subscription was for Gourmet. The memory is sentimental as it was given to me as a present by my mother when I headed off on my own after college. At the time I thought the magazine to be rather daunting, more sophisticated than I ever hoped to be. But it was lovely to behold … absorbing each page and visualizing what it would be like to stroll through one of the gorgeous travel photos, stopping to eat sumptuous, beautifully prepared food at some little treasure of a restaurant.

Maybe one day I could actually prepare one of the mouth-watering meals that graced the pages … maybe, just maybe. And of course one day I did. But those days of enjoying those pages are long gone, and it makes me sad.

So far Bon Appétit is still standing. I have never enjoyed it as much as I did Gourmet and it doesn't have the same meaning for me. I do hope, though, that it isn't turned into a soulless electronic web site, or worse, some horrible food network program.

Quick Minestrone Soup

This soup is just loaded with a good, healthy mix of vegetables and beans. It doesn't take long to prepare and can usually be made from items already on hand in the pantry and fridge. Substitutions can easily be made, just as long as there are plenty of tasty vegetables.

Quick Minestrone Soup
(Serves 6 to 8.)

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 yellow onion, finely chopped
• 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
• 5 cups meat stock, chicken stock, or vegetable broth
• 1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes with their juice
• 1 large carrot, coarsely chopped
• 1 zucchini, coarsely chopped
• 1 cup chopped cabbage
• 1/2 tablespoon dried basil
• 1/2 tablespoon dried oregano
• 1/2 tablespoon sugar
• 1/3 cup dried small elbow macaroni
• 1 can (15.5 ounces) cannellini beans or other white bean, drained and rinsed
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh parsley
• 2/3 cup (3 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Quick Minestrone Soup

Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. 

Add the broth, tomatoes, carrot, zucchini, cabbage, basil, oregano and sugar. Bring to a boil then down to a simmer.

Cover partially and simmer until the vegetables are tender crisp, about 20 minutes. Add the macaroni and cook, uncovered, until al dente, 8-10 minutes more.

Add the beans to the pot and heat through. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Ladle into warmed bowls. Garnish with the parsley and Parmesan.

Huevos Rancheros

Huevos Rancheros make a wonderful meal. Filling, tasty and satisfying, it is a nice change from the ordinary breakfast or brunch.

If you're having a late brunch, go ahead and add a slushy Frozen Margarita ... 

Huevos Rancheros

(Serves 4.)

• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

• 1 small onion, chopped

• 2 garlic cloves, 1 chopped, 1 smashed

• 2 large tomatoes, peeled, cored & chopped

• 1 tablespoon hot sauce, or to taste

• 1 teaspoon ground cumin

• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

• 1 15.5-ounce can black beans, drained & rinsed

• 4 extra-large eggs

• 4 6-inch corn or flour tortillas, warmed (use corn tortillas for a gluten-free dish)

• 1/2 cup crumbled queso fresco or feta cheese

• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro or parsley

Huevos Rancheros

Heat a small sauce pan over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the onion and sauté until the onions start to soften. Add the chopped garlic and sauté 1 minute more. Add the tomatoes, hot sauce, cumin and salt and pepper to taste. Stir to combine and cook until warmed through.

Heat a frying pan over low heat and add the beans, smashed garlic, 1/2 cup warm water and a pinch of salt. Cook until most of the water has evaporated. Smash the beans slightly with a fork.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a frying pan. Fry the eggs sunny-side up or over easy, depending on your preference.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Place a warmed tortilla on each of four plates. Top with beans, egg, tomato mixture and cheese. Serve immediately.

Sloppy Joes

Messy but fun to eat, I think everyone enjoys a good sloppy Joes sandwich, especially the kids. Substitute ground chicken or turkey for the ground beef if you prefer.

Sloppy Joes
(Makes 6 sandwiches.)

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 1/2 green bell pepper, chopped
• 1/2 red bell pepper, chopped
• 1 small onion, chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 pound lean ground beef
• 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce
• 1/2 cup ketchup
• 1 tablespoon brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon ground mustard
• 1 tablespoon white vinegar
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• Salt & freshly ground pepper, to taste

• Lettuce and sliced tomatoes, (optional)
• 6 hamburger buns, split

Sloppy Joes

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the bell peppers and onions. Sauté the vegetables until they begin to soften. Add the garlic and sauté 1 minute more.

Add the ground beef to the pepper mixture and cook until the meat is cooked through and is no longer pink. Drain excess fat from pan.

Add the tomato sauce, ketchup, brown sugar, ground mustard, vinegar and Worcestershire sauce to the beef. Stir to blend well. Simmer until thickened a little, 8 to 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serve mixture on hamburger buns, plain or with lettuce and tomatoes.

Smoked Salmon and Cream Pasta

This dish can be a quick first course or a main course served with a salad and a side of bread. The caviar lends an elegant touch, but can be left out.

Smoked Salmon and Cream Pasta
(Serves 6.)

• 5 tablespoons butter
• 3 shallots, minced
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 1/2 cups whipping cream
• 2 tablespoons vodka
• 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
• 4 ounces smoked salmon, diced
• 1 1/2 pounds fresh fettuccine or 1 pound boxed fettuccine
• 2 ounces salmon caviar, for garnish
• 3 tablespoons minced chives, for garnish

Smoked Salmon and Cream Pasta

Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Sauté the shallots and garlic for 2 minutes.

Pour in the cream and stir while bringing to a boil. Lower heat and simmer until cream has reduced slightly (about 10 minutes). Stir in vodka, white pepper and smoked salmon. Heat thoroughly.

Cook pasta according to package directions, drain and place in skillet with sauce. Toss pasta to coat completely with sauce.

Serve on warmed plates sprinkled with salmon caviar, if using, and chives.