On Comfort Food ... New England Clam Chowder

As much as I enjoy an elegant meal, both the food and its presentation, there is nothing more satisfying than what is referred to as “comfort” food.

People younger than I may picture snack food, a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, or a pint of Häagen-Dazs when they conjure up visions of comfort food. But when I think comfort, I think of foods warm and filling … foods that make you feel toasty warm and cozy; like a soft, comfy blanket or a glowing log crackling in the fireplace. I get nostalgic and harken back to my youth remembering my mother’s stews, soups, meatloaf, mashed potatoes and tapioca pudding.

As it is now December, I am dreading the thought of winter. We had it pretty good last year, but with all the storms that have careened up the coast the last few weeks, and an unusually cold last month, I am concerned that we may be in for a long, hard winter.

Thinking back to the last time we lost power in the winter, during a particularly bitter cold spell, we were forced out of the house once it had become cold enough inside to see our breath. When the power was restored and the heat turned on, it took a number of hours to remove the chill from the house. Hungry, the only thing we wanted was a big bowl of something warm and comforting, but it had to be easy and fast. So what better than a hearty pot of chowder?

To the pantry and fridge I went. Luckily all the ingredients were there, smiling at me … I smiled back, very happy to greet them all.

In a very short while, two piping hot bowls of New England Clam Chowder were on the table. Nothing could have tasted better, not even the most expensive five-star meal in the world could have bested that chowder.

There just are those times when you need that special kind of food that warms your heart and soul …

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This is a quick and easy clam chowder, but it is rich and tasty. Because the recipe only calls for 2 tablespoons of flour, it can easily be made gluten-free by substituting a gluten-free flour mixture.

New England Clam Chowder
(Serves 4.)

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 celery stalks, thinly sliced
• 4 strips of cooked bacon, chopped
• 2 tablespoons flour (or use a gluten-free flour mix for a GF soup)
• 2 medium red potatoes, diced
• 2 cups bottled clam juice
• 3 cups whole milk
• 1 bay leaf
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley
• 2 cans chopped clams (6.5 ounces), drained
• Chowder crackers (optional)

Easy, Comforting New England Clam Chowder

In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion and sauté until just softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the celery and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the bacon, then the flour and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, for 2 minutes longer. Stir in the potatoes, clam juice, milk and bay leaf.

Raise the heat to medium-high and bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.

Discard the bay leaf and season with salt and pepper. Add the parsley and clams. Cook for 1 minute longer to warm the clams through.

Ladle the chowder into bowls and top with chowder crackers. Serve immediately.

Eggs Benedict

I think my favorite and most decadent brunch item is Eggs Benedict, all silky and luxurious on the top and rough and crispy on the bottom. The combination is a real treat for the mouth as every bite has a blend of textures and tastes that are sure to delight the ham and egg lover.

Substitute a fried green tomato for the ham, or use spinach or artichokes for a meatless dish. For the seafood lover, a layer of moist, flavorful wild smoked salmon makes for a perfect flavor combination. Toast up some gluten-free bread for a GF dish. Eggs are so versatile and they fill you up for the day.

Eggs Benedict
(Serves two when serving 2 eggs per person, four when serving 1 egg per person.)

• 2 English muffins, split, toasted and buttered

• 4 thick slices ham or Canadian bacon, warmed
• 4 eggs
• 1 teaspoon vinegar (for poaching the eggs)
• 1/2 cup Hollandaise sauce (recipe follows or use a mix such as Knorr)

Hollandaise Sauce
• 3 large egg yolks
• 1 1/2 tablespoons cold water
• 1/2 cup warm clarified butter*
• 1 to 3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• Dash hot red pepper sauce (optional)
• Salt and ground white pepper to taste
• Chopped parsley for garnish

Eggs Benedict

For Sauce: Place the egg yolks and cold water in the top of a double boiler or in a large stainless-steel bowl set up as a double boiler. Off the heat, whisk the egg mixture until it becomes light and frothy. Place the top of the double boiler or the bowl over, not in, barely simmering water and continue to whisk until the eggs are thickened, 2 to 4 minutes, being careful not to let the eggs get too hot.

Remove the pan or bowl from over the water and whisk to slightly cool the mixture. Whisking constantly, very slowly add butter, then whisk in lemon juice, pepper sauce and salt and pepper. If the sauce is too thick, whisk in a few drops of warm water. Serve immediately or keep the sauce warm for up to 30 minutes by placing the bowl in warm (not hot) water.

To poach eggs: In a large skillet, bring 2 inches of water and the vinegar to a boil. Crack one egg into a glass. Reduce water to a simmer and pour egg into water in one quick motion. Quickly add remaining eggs. Let eggs cook for 4-5 minutes. The white should be firm but the yellow should be runny. Remove eggs with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel.

In a non-stick skillet heat the ham or bacon until warm. Toast the English muffins until golden.

To assemble: Place 2 English muffin halves on each plate. Top each with the warmed ham or bacon, poached egg and sauce. Garnish with parsley.

* For Clarified Butter: Place butter in a heavy saucepan and melt slowly over low heat. Remove the pan from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes. Skim the foam from the top, and slowly pour into a container, discarding the milky solids in the bottom of pan.

Clarified butter allows meats and fish to be cooked at a higher temperature than regular butter, making it ideal for pan-frying. By clarifying the butter the milk solids that burn quickly are skimmed out, as well as the water and salt. About 1/4 of the original butter amount will be lost during this process. The clarified butter will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for about 1 month.

The Incredible, Edible Egg

Eggs are so good and can be served in so many ways, I just love them, although I don’t eat them all that often.

I’ve never been a breakfast person. My mother used to practically have to shove even a piece of toast down my throat in the morning when I was a kid. But occasionally she would make a “breakfast dinner” for her brood of five, and we all loved it.

She would whip up some fried eggs, either bacon or Jones Dairy Farm sausage links, toast and what she called apple fritters. The apple fritters were not fritters at all, rather homemade pancakes with sliced apple in them. They were delicious all smothered in maple syrup.

We don’t have true breakfast dinners at home, but I occasionally make corned beef hash with a fried egg or a quiche with a big salad for dinner, and they are both tasty and satisfying. So why don’t we have breakfast for dinner? I don’t know, but I think it is a tradition that should become part of our dinner repertoire.

Wild Smoked Salmon with Goat Cheese, Eggs and Capers

Eggs are certainly economical and are quick to prepare, making them a good choice for any meal. I can’t think of a way that I don’t like eggs. Hard boiled they can wind up as egg salad, tossed with greens they become part of a chef or Cobb salad, thrown in with ham or tuna they make a good sandwich, then there are the wonderful deviled eggs … always a buffet favorite.

When we have overnight company it is easy to scramble up some eggs, open a package of wild smoked salmon and voila!, breakfast is served. Or top a crusty baguette with goat cheese, chopped hard boiled eggs, salmon and capers for a nice break from lox, bagels and cream cheese.

Of course when I feel ambitious, I’ll make the perennial favorite, beautiful and velvety Eggs Benedict. I made eggs Benedict for brunch just last Sunday. They are easier than they look, and can be made even simpler if using a mix for the Hollandaise Sauce.

Because of the high cholesterol content of eggs they shouldn’t be eaten in excess, but in moderation they are a great source of protein, vitamins and minerals.

For egg novices, here are some Egg Basics:

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Honey Glaze

Great for fall, or any time of the year, sweet potatoes are the perfect accompaniment to many dishes, especially pork. Serve these nicely glazed potatoes with Pork Loin and Apple Chutney for a wonderful comfort meal.

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Honey Glaze
(Makes 4 servings.)

• 2 1/4 pounds red-skinned sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced into 1/4-inch pieces
• 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter
• 3 tablespoons honey
• 1 teaspoon freshly-squeezed lemon juice
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Honey Glaze

Melt butter, honey and lemon juice together in a small saucepan. Arrange sweet potatoes in 13x9x2-inch glass baking dish. Pour butter mixture over sweet potatoes, salt and pepper and toss to coat.

Bake sweet potatoes until tender when pierced with skewer, stirring and turning occasionally, about 50 minutes. Place in serving bowl and sprinkle with parsley.

Pork Loin with Apple Chutney

On this first day of December, overcast and cold, my thoughts are turning to warm, comforting meals. This Pork Loin with Apple Chutney is so tasty yet it is so easy to prepare.

Cooking this dish fills the air with the scent of apples, ginger and allspice ... so flavorful and aromatic. Serve it with sweet potatoes, gratin potatoes or rice ... anything goes.

Pork with Apple Chutney
(Serves 6.)

Chutney
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 4 medium onions, thinly sliced
• 1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
• 1/3 cup sherry wine vinegar
• 2 small granny smith apples, peeled, cored, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 2 tablespoons yellow mustard seeds
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

Pork
• 1 4 to 4 1/3 pound center-cut pork loin
• 2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 1/4 cups chicken broth

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Pork Loin with Apple Chutney

For Chutney: Heat oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions and sauté until golden. Stir in both vinegars. Add apples, mustard seeds, sugar, ginger and allspice. Reduce heat to medium and sauté until apples are tender.

For Pork: Sprinkle pork with salt and pepper. Melt butter with oil in large wide ovenproof pot over medium-high heat until butter begins to brown. Add pork and cook until brown on all sides. Add 3/4 cup chicken broth to pot. Transfer pot to oven and roast until thermometer inserted into center of pork registers 150°F, about 35 minutes. Transfer pork to a platter. Tent with foil to keep warm.

Add apple chutney and remaining 1/2 cup broth to cooking liquid. Simmer mixture 4 minutes to blend.

Slice pork. Spoon apple chutney over pork and serve.