Exploring Copenhagen, Denmark

As mentioned in my Malmö, Sweden post, we flew from Cologne to Copenhagen and then took the train from the airport directly to Malmö rather than spending our first night in Copenhagen. It was a great opportunity to see a bit of another country, and it was so easy. I would highly recommend visiting Malmö as a side trip, even if not interested in spending the night. It is a delightful town and much less busy than Copenhagen.

Bustling Copenhagen

We took the same train into downtown Copenhagen that we took from the airport the day before to get to Malmö. Our hotel was within walking distance of the train station, making the journey a snap.

Denmark is the smallest Scandinavian country now, but in the 16th century it was the largest. Copenhagen is the country’s capital and the gateway to Scandinavia. Like Sweden, Denmark is part of the Europe Union but uses its own currency, the Danish krone (DKK).

Copenhagen is a large city but its core, where most visitors spend their time, is fairly compact and very walkable. The city offers lots of transportation options including metro, buses, taxis, and boats. Another excellent option is to join the locals by renting a bike. The ubiquitous hop on and off tour buses are a good way to get the lay of the land before starting out or if only in town a short while. We enjoyed walking everywhere whether heading to a tourist site or simply wandering about.

Canal View with Our Savior’s Church's Spiral Spire in Background

One tour we did take and enjoy was a canal and harbor cruise from the Nyhavn district. The Netto cruises are much less expensive than the Canal Tours Copenhagen and there doesn’t seem to be enough of a difference to justify the extra cost. The one-hour tour glides along the canals past some interesting sites, such as the very modern opera house, and provides a different vantage point to view the statue of The Little Mermaid. It’s a nice and relaxing way to while away a little time in a hectic city.

Copenhagen’s main square and heart of the city is City Hall Square, Rådhuspladsen. The dominant building is the City Hall, Rådhus. The City Hall is an important and historical landmark, and the building’s interior and garden are free for the public to tour.

Christiansborg Palace

Fine museums can be found all over Copenhagen. The country’s top art gallery is Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek. The gallery’s collection includes a variety of interesting pieces from ancient artifacts to more modern art. Denmark’s history is traced from its ancient beginnings through the chronologically laid out exhibits at the National Museum of Denmark.

I always enjoy visiting a city’s museum. Big or small, these local museums are always an interesting look into the history of the town from its beginnings to present day. The Museum of Copenhagen is no exception, it begins on the ground floor, which covers the city’s origins, and moves up the floors ending at the top with a walk through 20th century Copenhagen.

 

Rosenborg Castle

The sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen’s works are showcased at the Thorvaldsen’s Museum. The museum opened in 1848 as Denmark’s first public art gallery. Most of this prolific artist’s statues can be found here, and they are quite beautiful.

Christiansborg Palace is a compound of government buildings that sit atop the ruins of the original 12th-century fortress. The current palace is fairly new, dating to 1928. There are three sites that are open to the public; the reception rooms, the old castle ruins, and the stables.

Built as a summer residence by King Christian IV in the early 1600s, Rosenborg Castle, Rosenborg Slot, is a fine building to tour for its architectural details, tapestries, decorative objects including a fine porcelain collection, furnishings, artwork, and the pièce de resistance … the crown jewels in the Royal Danish Treasury.

The Little Mermaid

Even more appealing to some are the pretty Rosenborg Gardens. When the royal family is in residence, there is a small changing-of-the-guard march that takes place from the guard’s barracks near the gardens to Amalienborg Palace. Amalienborg Palace is the home of Queen Margrethe II and her husband. The palace compound includes the Amalienborg Museum, which offers visitors a glimpse into the life of the royal family.

The statue of The Little Mermaid was a gift to the city in 1909 from the wealthy brewing magnate, Carl Jacobsen, who was also responsible for the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek collection. The statue gained notoriety after the 1952 movie, Hans Christian Andersen. It is now the most recognized symbol of Copenhagen.

Nyhavn

The New Harbor, Nyhavn, used to be a gritty sailors’ quarter back in the day. It is now a trendy, bustling area full of fun and pricey bars and restaurants with outdoor dining. For those not wishing to pay the high bar prices, Copenhagen allows people to enjoy their beers sitting canal-side while watching the boats and people go by.

Pipe Organ of Our Savior’s Church

Across the harbor from old town Copenhagen is the district of Christianshavn. Once the merchant’s district, it is now a trendy neighborhood offering fine restaurants, a few sites, and pleasant places to stroll. The most popular site is Our Savior’s Church, Vor Frelsers Kirke. The church stands out in the skyline because of its unique spiral spire, which can be climbed for a wonderful city view. The inside houses a delicate 1696 Baroque interior and an incredible pipe organ that also dates to the late 1600s.

Tivoli Gardens

If there is a grande dame of amusement parks, it has to be Tivoli Gardens. The park has been a source of amusement and wonder since 1843. Yes, there are great rides, but there is also a wide variety of entertainment to enjoy, much of it free with entry. Even if not interested in rides; restaurants, beautiful grounds, water features and enchanting lighting make for a pleasant day or evening. We spent our last night here. Even though it was closing for the season and raining a bit, it was magical.

Scandinavia is quite expensive, and Copenhagen is no exception. Getting the tab for a simple meal of an opened-faced sandwich and a glass of wine was jaw-dropping. Like most cities, it is best to dine away from the popular spots, but it is hard to resist having a bite to eat or a drink in the picturesque Nyhavn area.

Tivoli Gardens' Lanterns

We stayed at the Absalon Hotel and, although popular, we didn’t care for it much. We found the staff to not be particularly welcoming or friendly. I could go on about the problems and some rudeness we encountered but suffice it to say we would not stay there again or recommend to others. We were there a while ago, so I'm assuming it has improved since then.

The city is extremely busy, and its sites are overrun with busloads of tourists that swarm in and take over. To photograph The Little Mermaid without people climbing all over it and taking endless pictures was a feat.

Overall we enjoyed our visit to Copenhagen and Malmö. We tend to favor southern Europe and smaller towns, but it's a pleasure to experience the beauty and diversity of different regions and cities.

Sea Bass with Cream Sauce and Tomatoes

Since I'm currently writing about about our trip to the southern part of Scandinavia, I started thinking of all the good fish we enjoyed there. So in honor of our travels , I thought I would post one of my very favorite fish recipes.

If you would like to enjoy a lovely, romantic fish dinner some evening, this is the one. I have served this elegant meal to a wide variety of guests, and it has consistently been a big hit with everyone. The cream sauce makes the dish. Serve it with a Rice Medley and Vegetables.

Sea Bass with Cream Sauce and Tomatoes
(Serves 4.)

Cream Sauce
• 2 tablespoons minced shallots
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
• 1 cup whipping cream
• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
• Salt and pepper to taste

Tomato Mixture
• 1 1/2 cups seeded plum tomatoes, diced
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
• 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
• 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
• 2 tablespoons minced shallots
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• Salt and pepper to taste

• 1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 1 pound sea bass, cut in four equal pieces
• Flour, seasoned with salt and pepper (use a gluten-free flour blend for a GF meal)


Sea Bass with Cream Sauce and Tomatoes

Cream sauce – Combine shallots, lemon juice and white wine vinegar in a small saucepan. Bring to boil and continue to boil until liquid has reduced to 1 teaspoon, about 5 minutes. Add cream and thyme, simmer until thickened to sauce consistency, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Keep chilled until ready to use.

Tomato mixture – Combine tomatoes, oil, basil, oregano, tarragon, shallots and lemon juice in medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and let stand 1 hour at room temperature.

Heat oil in a large fry pan. Dredge sea bass in seasoned flour. Sauté bass about 5 minutes, turn and sauté other side until opaque in center, about another 5 minutes depending on thickness.

To serve, heat cream sauce and divide among 4 plates. Place 1 portion of fish in middle of sauce. Top fish with tomato mixture and serve.

Exploring Malmö, Sweden

we flew from Cologne to Copenhagen at the end of our first trip to Germany. Since we had never been to Sweden, and were so close, we decided to spend our first night in Malmö rather than Copenhagen.

Sweden is part of the European Union but never adopted the euro. Their currency is the Swedish krona (SEK). English is widely spoken in the bigger cities but, as always, it is good to learn basic words and phrases of any country’s language before visiting.

Öresund Bridge

The train conveniently links Copenhagen’s airport with Malmö’s central train station so there is no need to leave the airport or to make a connection in town. Traveling over the Öresund Strait via the Öresund Bridge, within thirty-five minutes we were in the heart of Malmö. 

The idea of a bridge between Sweden and Denmark had been a dream for over 100 years. In 1991 the two countries agreed on how to finally achieve that dream and in July of 2000 the bridge opened to both train and vehicle traffic, injecting a new prosperity and vigor into the city of Malmö.

Malmö is the capital of Skåne County and is the third largest city in Sweden after Stockholm and Gothenborg. The city was founded in the mid-13th century. Under Danish rule from 1397 to 1658, Malmö was an important town. Once returned to Sweden, however, its fortunes waned until the end of the 18th century. The city benefitted from the 19th-century industrial revolution but was later affected by a decline in industry, particularly shipbuilding. 

Radhuset (Town Hall) in the Stortorget (Main Square)

Malmö struggled economically until the Öresund Bridge’s connection to Copenhagen helped to make Malmö a hub for new technologies and services. Malmö now enjoys a modern, lively, and thriving European lifestyle and has become a center for contemporary art and design.

The center of Malmö, where most sights are located, is compact and easy to explore on foot. Lilla Torg and Mollevangstorget are busy market squares, and the beautiful nearby parks are a delight to wander. While the center retains its old-town atmosphere, outside the city the suburbs are booming.

The historic Radhuset, the Town Hall, sits in the old town’s main square, Stortorget. Originally designed in the 1530s, the town hall was renovated in the 1860s, giving it the handsome Dutch-Renaissance façade that is seen today.

St. Petri Kyrka's Tower

Located behind Stortorget is Malmö’s cathedral, St. Petri Kyrka. Built in the 12th century, the church is made from red brick. The high tower, constructed in the late 19th century after two 15th-century towers collapsed, is a prominent feature of Malmö’s skyline. The cathedral houses treasures from the 16th and 17th centuries when Malmö’s prosperity was high. The ornate Renaissance-style altar is magnificent. The original medieval organ, built in 1531, is said to be the oldest working organ in the world and now resides in the Malmö Museum.

Surrounded by quaint shops and outdoor cafés, Lilla Torg, Little Square, is a popular gathering place. The square was created in 1590 and is still regularly used as a marketplace.

Museums abound in Malmö with most being part of the Malmö Museum. Malmöhus Castle was built from 1537 to 1542 on the ruins of an old fort and is the oldest preserved Renaissance castle in Scandinavia. Today the former fortress is a part of the Malmö Museum and houses the Malmö Art Museum, a Natural History Museum and a small aquarium.

Charming Streets of Malmö 

Teknikens och Sjöfartens Hus Malmöhusvägen, the Museum of Technology and Seafaring, is also part of the Malmö Museum. Its exhibits cover everything to do with technological development and seafaring, as well as the history of roadbuilding and aviation.

The Moderna Museet Malmö, Modern Museum, specializes in Scandinavian and international art of the 20th and 21st century. It is a branch of the Swedish Museum of Modern Art in Stockholm. It is one of Europe’s leading museums of modern and contemporary art.

Malmö Konsthall, the Art Hall, showcases a variety of exhibitions throughout the year from modern classics to experimental art.

Turning Torso

Stadsmuseet, the City Museum, covers the history of Malmö and surrounding Skane County. Exhibits include tools, weapons, and domestic objects. A popular attraction is the 18th-century tower with its 25-foot thick walls and original cannons.

Koggmuseet is an experience center built around two full-scale replica medieval cog ships, one of which is the largest in the world. Visitors learn about the history surrounding the ships and are welcome to climb onboard.

For fans of modern architecture, the Turning Torso in is the tallest skyscraper in Scandinavia with 54 floors. The building was designed by the Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava and is based on his sculpture of a twisted human body, the Twisting Torso. The tower stands near the Öresund Bridge in the new neighborhood of Västra Hamnen.

Lovely Parks

Green spaces are plentiful in Malmö. Kungsparken and Slottsparken are beautiful parks within walking distance of the old town. The Slottsträdgården is a working garden with a wide variety of crops and ornamental plants.

Nice restaurants are scattered all about town. For dinner we had a delightful evening at Johan P. Once seated in this quaint restaurant we studied our options from the carte, but the day's menu on the chalkboard looked interesting so we went for it. We were not disappointed. Each course was as good as the previous and the service was friendly and efficient. Prices were more expensive than we had experienced in other parts of Europe, but Scandinavia tends to be much pricier than mainland Europe.

We enjoyed our day and night in Malmö. It is such an easy side trip from Copenhagen so why not take the opportunity to cross an incredible bridge to spend a half day, full day or night in a delightful city in another country.

I’ll discuss our visit to Copenhagen in a later post.

Red Quinoa with Vegetables and Nuts

This side dish has a lovely blend of textures, is healthy and is naturally gluten-free. Pair it with Scallops and Cider Sauce for an easy, quick and delicious dinner.

Red Quinoa with Vegetables and Nuts
(Makes 4 to 6 servings.)

• 2 cups red quinoa
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and finely diced
• 6 scallions, thinly sliced
• 1 red bell pepper, seeded and finely diced
• 1 teaspoon coarse salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup fresh or frozen peas, thawed
• 1/2 cup chopped pistachio nuts
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme


Red Quinoa with Vegetables and Nuts

Pour quinoa into a bowl of cold water and wash it, rubbing it between your hands. Drain and repeat until the water is clear.

Bring 3 quarts of salted water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the quinoa, stir once and return to a boil. Cook, uncovered, over moderate heat 10 minutes. Pour through a strainer and drain well. Transfer to a large bowl.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over moderate heat. Add the carrot and sauté for 1 minute. Stir in the scallions and cook for another minute. Add the bell pepper, salt and pepper and sauté for about 2 minutes. Add the peas and stir to combine. Add the quinoa, chopped nuts and thyme and stir again to combine. Serve immediately.

Duck Breasts with Black Cherry Sauce

Duck has only recently been added to my cooking repertoire. It was always described as greasy and gamey ... not a very appealing description. I remember years ago listening to my mother and some of her co-workers plan a little luncheon. When one of the ladies suggested serving some "Cold Duck" (referring to the inexpensive sparkling wine popular in the day) another exclaimed "Isn't that a little greasy?!"

But if you only cook the breasts, and render just enough fat for sautéing, it doesn't have to be greasy at all and it is quite delicious.

The cherry sauce is a wonderful accompaniment. It gives a nice, but not overly sweet, flavor to the duck, and to pork as well. It makes a lot, so I freeze any extra for next time. If you want to make this gluten-free, make sure the chili sauce, beef broth and hoison sauce are all gluten-free (you can leave the hoison sauce out). The duck breasts can be grilled or cooked on the stove.

Duck Breasts with Black Cherry Sauce
(Serves 4.)

• 2 boneless duck breasts, each about 1 3/4 pound
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1/4 cup orange juice
• 1/2 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 1 jar (12 oz.) black cherry preserves
• 1/2 cup bottled chili sauce
• 1/2 cup beef stock
• 1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1 small jar of whole cherries (optional)
• 1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives


Duck Breasts with Black Cherry Sauce

Using a sharp knife, cut several long slashes in the skin, taking care not to cut through to the meat. Place the breasts in a shallow non-aluminum dish just large enough to hold them in a single layer.

In a small bowl, stir together the olive oil, orange juice, ginger, salt and pepper flakes. Spoon half of the marinade over the duck breasts. Turn over the breasts and spoon the remaining marinade on top. Cover and refrigerate, turning the breasts several times, for 2 hours. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking.

Meanwhile, make the sauce: In a saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the cherry preserves, chili sauce, stock, hoisin sauce and mustard. Stir well and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover partially, and simmer until thickened, about 20 minutes. Add the cherries and remove from the heat.

To grill: Prepare a hot fire in a grill. Position the grill rack 4 to 6 inches above the fire.

Place the duck breasts, skin sides down, on the rack. Cook until the skin is crisp, about 5 minutes. Turn over the breasts and continue to cook until medium-rare, about 3 minutes more. To test, press the meat; it will give slightly, then bounce back. Brush both sides of the breasts with a little of the black cherry sauce and grill for 1 minute on each side to glaze.

To cook on stove: If you prefer to cook the duck breasts on the stove, you can sauté them in a large pan over medium heat. I take the skin off because it is so fatty and can make a mess, but cook them however you like. (If leaving the skin on, start cooking with the skin side down and cook until the skin is crisp. If the skin has been removed, add a little oil to the pan or render some of the fatty skin to sauté the duck.) Flip the breasts over and continue to cook to your liking, about 5 minutes for medium/rare.

Transfer the breasts to a cutting board, cover loosely with aluminum foil and let rest for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, reheat the cherry sauce over low heat.

Carve the duck breasts on the diagonal across the grain into thin slices. Arrange on a platter and spoon the hot cherry sauce over the top. Sprinkle with the chives and serve immediately.