Belgium, A Visit to Bruges

From Amsterdam we traveled, via a stop in Antwerp, to Bruges, Belgium.

Peaceful Bruges

As early as the 11th century Bruges was a wealthy textile trading center. By the 14th century, sea trade linking the north and south of Europe brought even more prosperity to the town. Bruges became one of the biggest cities in the world, both in population and economic power. Commerce and the arts boomed through the 15th century, but by the 16th the harbor had silted up and along with it the city’s economy. Its Golden Age had collapsed.

The new port of Zeebrugge brought a renewed vitality in the 19th century, and from the 20th to the present Bruges has prospered as a popular tourist town. Despite its being a tourist mecca, Bruges is a great town to settle in, slow down, and just enjoy the ambiance of this charming, well-preserved Gothic city.

Cozy Public Room at the Grand Hotel Casselbergh Bruges

Upon arrival at the train station we set off on foot to our hotel. It would have been easier to take a taxi or a bus, like we did on our return, as rolling carry-on luggage over cobblestone streets in the rain was not the best idea we have ever had. Nonetheless, we arrived at the beautiful Grand Hotel Casselbergh Bruges, albeit a bit wet, within about twenty minutes.

We just loved this hotel right off the Burg, the location was perfect. We walked everywhere including all the way to the town of Damme. We had a room in the older part of the hotel for our 3-night stay. It was roomy, had a little sitting area, lots of light, comfy bed, and a nice modern bath with both a shower and a tub.

Tour Boats are Plentiful throughout Bruges

The many public areas were delightful and exquisitely furnished … taking one back to bygone days. While each room had a pleasant area to relax, as it was cold and rainy during our stay, our favorite spot was off the bar in front of the cozy fireplace. The wine and drink prices were reasonable, and it was nice to be able to sip a cocktail or some wine before venturing out to dine or before retiring for the evening.

For a hotel this size, there are 118 rooms, it had a very intimate and personal feeling to it … almost bed and breakfast like. WiFi connections were available free of charge and worked well. Located in a nice dining room, the bountiful breakfast was a treat and was included with our reasonable rate. The only negative during our stay was a conference that started our last night. It was quite noisy in the bar area and there was no place for other guests to sit. I can see how the hotel could easily be taken over by conference attendees, pushing out vacationers.

Gothic Town Hall in Burg Square

Easily walkable, Bruges is delightful to wander. The town itself is the best site but, of course, there are several fine tours and attractions to keep visitors busy. A popular way to see the town is by hopping on one of the canal boats for a 30-minute tour. Also popular are minibus, bike, and walking tours … although the latter two can be done on one’s own.

If just day tripping to Bruges, it is best not to go on a Monday as most museums are closed. For those visiting longer, Monday is the day to plan outdoor activities, a tour, or some shopping.

Upper Chapel, Basilica of the Holy Blood

For those planning to see several of the town’s sites, it is a good idea to check out the discount passes and combo tickets available to save a little money. Speaking of money, Belgium is part of the European Union, actually the EU is headquartered in Brussels, and the Euro (€) is the country’s currency.

We were staying near Burg Square, the birthplace of Bruges, so we started our exploration there. For centuries the Burg has been the power center of the city. Where once a 9th-century fortress stood, the present majestic buildings were constructed over six centuries and represent a variety of architectural styles from Gothic to Renaissance to Neo-Classical.

The city council still resides in the 14th-century Gothic Town Hall or Stadhuis. It is, perhaps, the most beautiful building in Bruges and one of the oldest in the Low Countries. On another side of the square sits an elegant Baroque-style building called the Deanery, which was originally the house of the deans of St. Donatius Church.

Market Square

In a corner of the square stands the ornately decorated façade of the Basilica of the Holy Blood. The Basilica consists of two chapels, a Romanesque lower chapel, and a Gothic upper chapel. The lower chapel is quite plain with little decoration, while the upper chapel is full of color and detail. The Basilica was so named because it houses a relic from The Crucifixion, a vial containing a small piece of cloth said to be stained with drops of the blood of Jesus.

Next to the Basilica are brasseries and restaurants offering food, drinks, and the ambience of the beautiful square.

The Burg may be the most historic square, but the Market Square, Markt, with its iconic bell tower dating back to 1300, is the more modern heart of the city. Gabled buildings and restaurants with outdoor terraces make for a charming place to sit and enjoy the people passing by.

Michelangelo's Madonna and Child

The Groenige Museum houses a wonderful collection of mainly Flemish art. The Gruuthuse Museum was the 15th-century home of a wealthy brewer. It houses a diverse collection of decorative arts from the 13th to the 19th century.

Memling Museum/St. John’s Hospital is one of the oldest hospitals in Europe, dating back to the mid-12th century. A visit to the medieval wards, as well as the church and the chapel, rewards with an impressive collection of archives, art works, medical instruments and seven works of art by Hans Memling.

The Begijnhof with its white painted facades and tranquil monastery garden was founded in 1245. In this quiet oasis lived the beguines, lay women who did not take vows but still lived a pious and celibate life. Today the Begijnhof is inhabited by nuns of the Order of Saint Benedict and single Bruges women.

Minnewater

The towering brick steeple of the Church of Our Lady dominates the city’s skyline. It took two centuries (13th-15th) to build the church. Among the many art treasures is a beautiful Carrara marble Madonna and Child sculpture carved by Michelangelo. It is believed to be the only Michelangelo statue to leave Italy in his lifetime.

Tucked away at the southern end of Bruges is the park known as "Minnewater." The park's centerpiece is the scenic "Lake of Love.” This tranquil area, within the confines of the city, is a great place to see some local wildlife, including the graceful swans that are a symbol of city.

View toward Bruges from Damme Canal

A 15-minute stroll from the town center takes visitors to four windmills located along the “Big Moat” canal. For a longer hike or bike ride, the level Damme Canal path is very pleasant.

We followed this path all the way to Damme on foot and returned to Bruges by boat. The Damme Canal was built by Napoleon in 1811. Just outside of Damme sits another windmill. The Schelle Windmill is an actual working windmill dating back to 1867.

It is said that Damme is a smaller version of Bruges, I’m not sure I would go quite that far, but it is a quaint, enjoyable town that has its own Church of Our Lady, City Hall and a St. John’s Hospital. It's a nice place to walk, bike or boat to; then walk around and enjoy a little lunch.

We loved Bruges and the surrounding area. The only negative of our trip was the cold, damp weather. But even that could not spoil our time there. Our next stop in Belgium, and final stop of our trip, will be Brussels, but first we will take a little detour to the town of Lille in France.

Medallions of Pork with Pear Sauce

We tend to eat mostly seafood, poultry and pasta, but when we do eat meat, it is usually pork. Pork is so versatile, it is easy to cook up a chop, roast a tenderloin or throw some pieces into a stir-fry.

This is an easy and tasty dish but it is also pretty and sophisticated enough to make for company. The pears are a nice change from apples, which are a more common accompaniment to pork.

Medallions of Pork with Pear Sauce
(Serves 4 to 6 depending on size of pork loin.)

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 

• 1 pork loin 

• Dried rubbed sage 

• All purpose flour 

• 2 pears, peeled, cored, thinly sliced (about 1 pound) 

• 1/3 cup dry white wine 

• 2 tablespoons sugar 

• 2 tablespoons chopped crystallized ginger

Medallions of Pork with Pear Sauce

Heat oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Season pork with dried sage, salt and pepper. Coat pork with flour; shake off excess. Add pork to skillet and sauté until brown, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter.

Drain fat from skillet. Add pears and sauté over medium heat for 2 minutes. Stir in wine, sugar and ginger, scraping up browned bits. Increase heat to high and boil until pears are tender and syrup is thick, about 5 minutes. 

Return pork and any accumulated juices to skillet. Simmer until cooked through and the pork's internal temperature reaches 145°F. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove to a cutting board and let the pork rest for 5 minutes. Slice into medallions and arrange on plates. Spoon sauce over and serve.

Light as Air Chocolate Cupcakes

I make these cupcakes for a friend who has Celiac Disease and cannot tolerate anything made with wheat. Since there are only two tablespoons of flour in this recipe, the flour can be easily substituted with a gluten-free flour blend with no change to the texture or the taste of the cupcake.

Light as Air Chocolate Cupcakes
(Makes about 12 cupcakes.)

• 4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 3 extra-large whole eggs, lightly beaten
• 3 egg whites (from 3 additional extra-large eggs)
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour (use a gluten-free flour blend to make wonderful GF cupcakes)
• 1 1/2 cups chocolate whipped cream frosting, recipe follows

Position rack in the middle of an oven and preheat to 350°F. 

Light as Air Chocolate Cupcakes

Line 12 muffin-tin cups with fluted paper cup liners.

Melt the chocolate and butter in a in a double boiler. Stir until melted and smooth. Let cool for five minutes and stir in the three whole eggs, sugar and flour.

Meanwhile, place the three egg whites in a separate bowl. Using an electric mixer, beat on high speed until stiff and glossy but not dry. Using a rubber spatula, fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture. Spoon into the muffin cups, filling each cup two-thirds full.

Bake until the tops look dry, 12-14 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely before icing. Top each cupcake with some of the chocolate whipped cream (the cream can also be piped into the cupcake through the bottom if desired). Serve immediately or chill for up to four hours.

Chocolate Whipped Cream Frosting
(Makes about 4 cups.)

• 2 cups heavy cream, chilled
• 1 cup confectioner’s sugar, sifted before measuring
• 1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa, sifted before measuring

Using a chilled metal bowl and chilled beaters, whip the cream for a few minutes until it just starts to thicken. Add the sifted sugar and sifted cocoa and continue beating until thick enough to hold firm peaks.

Take care not to overbeat or the cream will turn to butter. Refrigerate until ready to use, but not more than four hours.

Belgium, A Stop in Antwerp

From Amsterdam we were off to Bruges, Belgium for a few days. We had to change trains in Antwerp, so we decided to layover there for a few hours. After arriving at the magnificent Central Station, Antwerpen Centraal, we tossed our bags in a locker then headed through the majestic great hall and out to explore.

Antwerpen Centraal

Built around the turn of the 20th century, the train station is itself a showpiece. It is worth taking a moment to appreciate the great hall and the building’s façade, even if not arriving by train.

Great Hall of Antwerpen Centraal

Directly outside of the train station is one of the world’s largest diamond districts. Raw diamonds are prepared, cut, and sold here. For those interested in understanding more about the diamond industry, the small Diamond Museum, Diamantmuseum, is located in the square.

Further down, toward the Old Town, stands the former home of the prolific artist, Peter Paul Rubens. The home provides an interesting look into the artist’s works and showcases a few original paintings. The house has been completely restored so, unfortunately, there is nothing original in it.

Town Hall, Stadhuis

The town’s main square, Grote Markt, is flanked by the flag-adorned Town Hall, Stadhuis, and the steeple of the Cathedral of Our Lady. The Town Hall’s façade dates from the 16th century, Antwerp’s golden age. The building is decorated with the flags of the European Union countries as well as the countries that have a consulate in Antwerp. The building was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999.

Cathedral of Our Lady's Spire

Boasting the tallest steeple in the Low Countries, the Cathedral of Our Lady is Antwerp’s largest church. The Cathedral has had a long and difficult past. It was marred by fire a few years after its completion in the middle ages. It was twice stripped of its interior décor, first by the protestants and then by Napoleon. After turning the church into a stable, Napoleon planned to destroy it, but he was defeated prior to its destruction and the church has survived to this day. Four Rubens were housed in the church where copies now usually hang. The originals are in the Museum of Fine Art but have been temporarily moved back to the cathedral during the museum’s renovation. The stained-glass windows are lovely, and a few are original.

Cathedral of Our Lady

Guild houses also line the square, and many have cafés on the main floor, nice for having a bite to eat while watching the locals go about their day. The elaborate fountain in the middle tells a tale from Flemish folklore of an odious giant and a brave Roman soldier. The rather gory scene depicted by the statue is of the soldier throwing the giant’s severed hand into the river.

There isn’t much to see on Antwerp’s once important Scheldt riverfront. Around 950 AD, Emperor Otto I built a castle, Het Steen, to defend against Viking attacks. Part of the original structure remains but most of today's stone fortress was built in the early 13th century. There isn’t anything currently housed in the castle, but it is undergoing a massive renovation and will open sometime this year as a cruise terminal, welcome center, and an interactive experience focused on Antwerp and its history.

Guild Houses Line the Square

There are several museums spread throughout Antwerp including The Royal Museum of Fine Art Antwerp which, as mentioned above, is also currently being renovated. Located in the trendy South, Zuid, district, the museum houses an impressive collection of art including paintings by Flemish primitives, Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling and works by Quentin Massys, the founding father of Antwerp’s painting school. Nineteenth-century artists and modernists such as Rubens, Sir Anthony Van Dyck and Jacob Jordaens are on display as are works by James Ensor and Rik Wouters, as well as the foreign artists Titian, Frans Hals, Auguste Rodin and Amedeo Modigliani.

Outdoor Cafés 

Nicolaas Rockox was a mayor of Antwerp and a sponsor of Peter Paul Rubens. His home has been turned into a museum and, unlike the Rubens house which was remodeled, it is a true period home with fine art and furniture collections. A lovely period courtyard and garden are also showcased. The Musical Instruments Museum, Museum Vleehuis, houses a good collection of, of course, musical instruments and old music manuscripts.

Antwerp was an important printing city during its Golden Age. The Museum Plantin-Moretus illustrates the history of the local printing industry through displays of old printing presses, maps, antique manuscripts, and a Gutenberg Bible. The building also shows off handsome rooms with tapestry wall hangings and paintings.

Het Steen

The city has quite a fashion area called the Sint-Andries Fashion District. All kinds of shops from funky to couture line the streets. The ModeMuseum, MoMu, offers rotating fashion exhibits that change about every six months. In addition to the fashion district, the area referred to as the Meir is good for a little boutique shopping. It runs between the train station and Old Town.

It was definitely worth waiting for a later train connection and spending some time in Antwerp on the way to Bruges. I try to never miss a chance to easily side trip or make a stop while traveling from one town to another. There is so much to see and enjoy, so why waste an opportunity. I’ll write about the charming town of Bruges in a future post.

Pumpkin Cupcakes

Pumpkin isn't just for Halloween and Thanksgiving, canned pumpkin puree is available all year and makes a great ingredient for a wide variety of foods. I make Pumpkin Ravioli, Pumpkin Chiffon Pie, Pumpkin Roulade with Ginger Filling, Pumpkin Muffins and these Pumpkin Cupcakes throughout the year. My German Shepherd enjoys licking the near empty can of pumpkin puree, and it's good for her.

Unless buying a ready-made filling for a pie, always be sure to buy pure pumpkin puree instead of pie filling to use in pumpkin recipes.

Pumpkin Cupcakes
(Makes 12.)

• 1 cup all-purpose flour (spooned & leveled)

• 1 teaspoon baking powder

• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

• 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 1 cup pure pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie filling)

• 1/2 cup vegetable oil

• 1/2 cup light brown sugar, packed

• 1/4 cup granulated sugar

• 2 large eggs

• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

• 1/2 cup chopped pecans or walnuts, optional

• Cream cheese frosting, recipe follows

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Pumpkin Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting

Line a 12-count muffin/cupcake tin with cupcake liners and set aside.

In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, ground cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, and salt. Set aside.

In a separate large mixing bowl, whisk together the pumpkin puree, oil, brown sugar, and granulated sugar. Whisk in eggs, one at a time. Stir in the vanilla and mix until all ingredients are fully combined.

Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients, add the nuts, if using, and mix until just combined.

Evenly divide the batter among the 12 cupcake liners.

Bake for approximately 18 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cupcakes comes out clean.

Remove the muffin/cupcake tin from the oven and let the cupcakes cool for 5 minutes. Carefully remove the cupcakes from the pan and transfer to a wire rack to finish cooling completely.

Frost the cooled cupcakes and decorate as desired.

Add a Little Fun with Holiday Picks

Cream Cheese Frosting

• 1 (8-ounce) package brick-style cream cheese, softened

• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened

• 1 1/2 cups confectioner’s sugar

• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Using a handheld mixer, or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and cream cheese together until smooth. Add the powdered sugar and vanilla extract and mix until fully combined.